Making friends in Europe is easy - way more so than in the US. Eating out at home means sitting at a private table generally isolated from those around you - almost the opposite of what is expected in Europe. Anyone who speaks English is a part of the club - an immediate bond, regardless of nationality or patriotic alliance.
So far, Sean and I have had numerous engaging conversations over a meal. There was a young couple from New York that we met on our Best of Tuscany Tour while in Florence - the woman was pregnant and had just found out the day before what gender they were having. We were the first to find out (it was a girl) - not even their families had been told yet. Then we met a very sweet woman from Australia while dining at Il Caminetto whose husband had just passed away. She was traveling around the world for a few months until she could figure out what move to make next. Yesterday in Bruges, we struck up a conversation with a couple after our brewery tour. The man was from England and the woman from Australia - we never did figure out their relationship exactly, but we chatted with them for over an hour, even blowing off our plans for the rest of the evening so we could continue our chat.
Tonight for dinner, Sean and I wanted to try some "mussels from Brussels." Being from the pacific northwest (and therefore spoiled with seafood), they were goood, but nothing special. The American couple sitting next to us kept raving about how delicious they were, far better than anything they could get back home. I immediately guessed that they were from the midwest. Sure enough, as the night progressed, we started talking and found out they were from Ohio. We started dinner at 7:30 pm and didn't leave until after 10 - the longest meal Sean and I have had while in Europe. We really enjoyed getting to know this other couple and having an experience outside of just Sean and me. I will miss this element of dining when we return home - it is one of the things I've come to treasure about Europe. The friendships might not last a lifetime, but for an evening away from home, they are a very special gift.
Friday, May 31, 2013
Thursday, May 30, 2013
Our Homes Away from Home
Sean and I have stayed in some pretty nice places while we have been in Europe. When I was booking hotels, I didn't realize at first what the star ratings meant - I thought it was based on the quality of the hotel, when it's actually just based on the amenities offered. Because we knew we wouldn't be spending a lot of time in our rooms (or in a pool, sauna, gym, etc), we went with basic two star hotels. I think it's safe to say that we have loved every one of them - though our two favorites so far have been Lucerne (that view!) and Brussels. Pictures don't do any of these hotels justice!
Rome - Hotel Selene
Our hotel in Rome was Hotel Selene, which came recommended to us by my mom from her previous visit. The staff at the hotel was very helpful and friendly, and the hotel location was super convenient. My only complaint was that the bed was rock hard and a tad uncomfortable, but since we were only there two nights, it didn't matter too much. We will definitely stay there again in the future when we return (already planning out our next vacation in my head). Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures for this hotel (we forgot!).
Florence - Magnifico Messere
I really liked our hotel in Florence. The bed was comfortable (always important to me, more than most other things - I want to be able to sleep!) and the hotel owner was very sweet and accomodating. The hotel offered a public kitchen shared with two other guests and was stocked with basic food items that were offered at no charge. Our location was fantastic - within an easy walk of the train station and sandwiched right between the Duomo and the Piazza della Republica (we even had a peek-a-boo view of the Duomo). It got a bit (or a lot) noisy at times, but the atmosphere was intoxicating, so Sean and I didn't mind.
Lucerne - Mr. Pickwick Hotel
If I had a house with a view like the one we had in Lucerne, I would die a happy woman. I couldn't believe we snagged a room like this for the price that we did - what a great value. Even though Sean and I had separate beds while there, it wasn't the end of the world, and the beds were by far the most comfortable we've slept in. Our room was located above an English/Irish pub, which provided a lively atmosphere and gave us a taste of home when we needed one. Both Sean and I are anxious to get back to Lucerne and there is no other hotel we'd rather stay in.
Eguisheim - Auberge des Trois Chateaux
Although Sean and I both loved Eguisheim, I don't think we would stay there again. The village was too small for us and made getting around a bit difficult. Eguisheim isn't on the train line and the only bus offered is the school bus! Tourists are allowed to ride with the kids to and from school, but that meant heading out at 7:30 in the morning and coming back by 4:00 pm. That said, our hotel was very nice and provided a pretty view onto one of the main piazzas. The hotel owner was very friendly and had tons of energy, plus she spoke English well which made getting help much easier. She and her husband also owned the attached restaurant, which dished up some pretty good German cuisine.
Brussels - Azimut Flathotel
Our hotel in Brussels is fantastic. It used to be an apartment building, but was converted to a hotel, which means it has a small kitchenette complete with a washing machine - a huge luxury for us at this point in our trip. It is located right next to Gran Plaz, giving us immediate access to the train station and a plethora of restaurants. Both Sean and I wish we had a few more nights here - neither of us is ready to leave yet, but leave we must at 2:47 pm tomorrow (bound for Paris). Should we return to Brussels in the future (and I hope we do), we will be staying here again.
Rome - Hotel Selene
Our hotel in Rome was Hotel Selene, which came recommended to us by my mom from her previous visit. The staff at the hotel was very helpful and friendly, and the hotel location was super convenient. My only complaint was that the bed was rock hard and a tad uncomfortable, but since we were only there two nights, it didn't matter too much. We will definitely stay there again in the future when we return (already planning out our next vacation in my head). Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures for this hotel (we forgot!).
Florence - Magnifico Messere
I really liked our hotel in Florence. The bed was comfortable (always important to me, more than most other things - I want to be able to sleep!) and the hotel owner was very sweet and accomodating. The hotel offered a public kitchen shared with two other guests and was stocked with basic food items that were offered at no charge. Our location was fantastic - within an easy walk of the train station and sandwiched right between the Duomo and the Piazza della Republica (we even had a peek-a-boo view of the Duomo). It got a bit (or a lot) noisy at times, but the atmosphere was intoxicating, so Sean and I didn't mind.
Lucerne - Mr. Pickwick Hotel
If I had a house with a view like the one we had in Lucerne, I would die a happy woman. I couldn't believe we snagged a room like this for the price that we did - what a great value. Even though Sean and I had separate beds while there, it wasn't the end of the world, and the beds were by far the most comfortable we've slept in. Our room was located above an English/Irish pub, which provided a lively atmosphere and gave us a taste of home when we needed one. Both Sean and I are anxious to get back to Lucerne and there is no other hotel we'd rather stay in.
Eguisheim - Auberge des Trois Chateaux
Although Sean and I both loved Eguisheim, I don't think we would stay there again. The village was too small for us and made getting around a bit difficult. Eguisheim isn't on the train line and the only bus offered is the school bus! Tourists are allowed to ride with the kids to and from school, but that meant heading out at 7:30 in the morning and coming back by 4:00 pm. That said, our hotel was very nice and provided a pretty view onto one of the main piazzas. The hotel owner was very friendly and had tons of energy, plus she spoke English well which made getting help much easier. She and her husband also owned the attached restaurant, which dished up some pretty good German cuisine.
Brussels - Azimut Flathotel
Our hotel in Brussels is fantastic. It used to be an apartment building, but was converted to a hotel, which means it has a small kitchenette complete with a washing machine - a huge luxury for us at this point in our trip. It is located right next to Gran Plaz, giving us immediate access to the train station and a plethora of restaurants. Both Sean and I wish we had a few more nights here - neither of us is ready to leave yet, but leave we must at 2:47 pm tomorrow (bound for Paris). Should we return to Brussels in the future (and I hope we do), we will be staying here again.
The Most Magical Place on Earth
Bruges is like Disneyland for adults – the most magical place on earth. It is so picturesque that it almost doesn’t seem real. Sean and I got a late start to Bruges this morning because we got in so late last night. All the recommendations I saw online said that only a half day in Bruges is needed, so we weren’t really stressing about it. However, I call BS to that claim – I easily could have spent a few days in Bruges – there is no way I can imagine fitting everything in within a half day.
The first thing we did when we arrived was to head straight for the main square and buy some frites (fries) with mayonnaise – the traditional way of eating fries in Belgium. I had already splurged a bit and had a Belgian waffle at the train station, but Sean hadn’t eaten breakfast and was hungry. We sat in the main square and people watched, then headed towards the canals for a boat tour on the water. Seeing Bruges by boat is pretty special and somewhat mesmerizing. The water is calm, there are swans everywhere, and of course the view is beautiful. Our captain was really funny and kept everyone entertained with his knowledge and witty repertoire. After the canal cruise, we got in line to climb the bell tower, which provided amazing views of the small city.
Then came my favorite part – we stopped into the Chocolate Line, one of the Belgian chocolate shops that came highly recommended by Rick Steves. They have a huge assortment of chocolates and probably the most unique flavors found in Bruges (and possibly all of Belgium). As we stood in line reviewing our options, I heard someone in front of me ask for a chocolate that caught my attention – cannabis. I couldn’t help myself, I had to try it (don’t judge, curiosity got the best of me). It definitely ended up being my gateway chocolate – we purchased four more intriguing flavors (Havana, passion fruit, key lime, and apple hazelnut) and one traditional (caramel) for Sean’s sake – I didn’t want to overwhelm the poor guy. I loved the Havana, which is described as a Cuban cigar flavor because it is made with Cuban tobacco leaves (and thus technically illegal in the US). Sean’s favorite was the apple hazelnut. I loved the chocolates so much that I’m already looking into having some shipped home after we get back – they were that good.
Almost everything in Bruges closes around 5 or 6, so we hustled over to De Halve Maan Brewery for the guided brewery tour and beer tasting. De Halve Maan is the only brewery in Bruges and the tour was fascinating and incredibly informational – plus it smelled delicious inside, like fresh baked bread. After the tour we were each given a complimentary beer to enjoy. It is the only beer on tap that is unfiltered and unpasteurized, and therefore isn’t shipped like the other beers – it is only available in the brewery in Bruges. Because it was cold outside, Sean and I found a spot by the fireplace next to another couple to relax for a bit. We got into an engaging conversation with the other couple (I say couple because there were two of them – we never did figure out their actual relationship), and ended up spending an hour chatting and enjoying each other’s company. They recommended a small place on one of the back streets of Bruges for dinner, so we decided to give it a try. On our way I noticed that another chocolate shop recommended by Rick Steves was still open (Dumon Chocolates), so we stopped in to sample a few more. We got a large assortment, including a chocolate dipped orange slice and a liquor filled cherry. Because they were closing, the woman threw in a few freebies for us to try. She was very sweet and we enjoyed our visit to their store.
We made our way to the recommended restaurant with the intention of having a bite to eat. However, they weren’t serving dinner yet, so we had another beer and then decided we would attempt to catch the next train back to Belgium. We didn’t want to leave, but everything had pretty much closed down, with the exception of restaurants. We arrived back to our hotel around 9:00 pm and Sean cooked up some noodles that we had purchased while in Italy. After dining on fresh, homemade cuisine, the noodles were disappointing and we threw most of them away. We ended up dining on snacks and chocolates – not a bad meal if you ask me!
The first thing we did when we arrived was to head straight for the main square and buy some frites (fries) with mayonnaise – the traditional way of eating fries in Belgium. I had already splurged a bit and had a Belgian waffle at the train station, but Sean hadn’t eaten breakfast and was hungry. We sat in the main square and people watched, then headed towards the canals for a boat tour on the water. Seeing Bruges by boat is pretty special and somewhat mesmerizing. The water is calm, there are swans everywhere, and of course the view is beautiful. Our captain was really funny and kept everyone entertained with his knowledge and witty repertoire. After the canal cruise, we got in line to climb the bell tower, which provided amazing views of the small city.
Then came my favorite part – we stopped into the Chocolate Line, one of the Belgian chocolate shops that came highly recommended by Rick Steves. They have a huge assortment of chocolates and probably the most unique flavors found in Bruges (and possibly all of Belgium). As we stood in line reviewing our options, I heard someone in front of me ask for a chocolate that caught my attention – cannabis. I couldn’t help myself, I had to try it (don’t judge, curiosity got the best of me). It definitely ended up being my gateway chocolate – we purchased four more intriguing flavors (Havana, passion fruit, key lime, and apple hazelnut) and one traditional (caramel) for Sean’s sake – I didn’t want to overwhelm the poor guy. I loved the Havana, which is described as a Cuban cigar flavor because it is made with Cuban tobacco leaves (and thus technically illegal in the US). Sean’s favorite was the apple hazelnut. I loved the chocolates so much that I’m already looking into having some shipped home after we get back – they were that good.
Almost everything in Bruges closes around 5 or 6, so we hustled over to De Halve Maan Brewery for the guided brewery tour and beer tasting. De Halve Maan is the only brewery in Bruges and the tour was fascinating and incredibly informational – plus it smelled delicious inside, like fresh baked bread. After the tour we were each given a complimentary beer to enjoy. It is the only beer on tap that is unfiltered and unpasteurized, and therefore isn’t shipped like the other beers – it is only available in the brewery in Bruges. Because it was cold outside, Sean and I found a spot by the fireplace next to another couple to relax for a bit. We got into an engaging conversation with the other couple (I say couple because there were two of them – we never did figure out their actual relationship), and ended up spending an hour chatting and enjoying each other’s company. They recommended a small place on one of the back streets of Bruges for dinner, so we decided to give it a try. On our way I noticed that another chocolate shop recommended by Rick Steves was still open (Dumon Chocolates), so we stopped in to sample a few more. We got a large assortment, including a chocolate dipped orange slice and a liquor filled cherry. Because they were closing, the woman threw in a few freebies for us to try. She was very sweet and we enjoyed our visit to their store.
We made our way to the recommended restaurant with the intention of having a bite to eat. However, they weren’t serving dinner yet, so we had another beer and then decided we would attempt to catch the next train back to Belgium. We didn’t want to leave, but everything had pretty much closed down, with the exception of restaurants. We arrived back to our hotel around 9:00 pm and Sean cooked up some noodles that we had purchased while in Italy. After dining on fresh, homemade cuisine, the noodles were disappointing and we threw most of them away. We ended up dining on snacks and chocolates – not a bad meal if you ask me!
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Foodie Blog Part 1
I realized today that I haven’t said anything yet really about the food in Europe, which is silly considering that one of the reasons Sean and I were looking forward to coming was so that we could eat and drink our way through each country. Overall, the food has been delicious and has presented yet one more adventure (though more so for me than for Sean, who tends to stick to his comfort zone when it comes to his taste buds). I’ve broken out my notes by each country and I’ll follow up with another entry once we’ve experienced the food in Belgium and Paris as well.
Italy
Italy has by far provided the most top notch cuisine on our trip, and therefore will also require the most explanation. I would like to imprint all of the foods and experiences into my memory, though I suspect it will force multiple return trips when a refresher is needed. After only a week in both Florence and Rome, I feel I could write an entire book about the foods of Italy. Everything was incredibly fresh and full of flavor. Nothing beats the tender chewiness of fresh homemade pasta and the sweetness of garden ripe tomatoes (Fun fact about tomatoes: although a huge part of Italian cuisine, Italy didn’t use tomatoes in their cooking until the 1500s when they were brought over from the Americas. You’re quite welcome Italy). On our first night in Rome, Sean and I ordered a plate of lasagna to share as our first course, and oh my goodness was it good. I have never had lasagna quite that delicious, and I make a mean lasagna so that’s saying a lot. In a lot of lasagna dishes, one ingredient (normally cheese) tends to overwhelm the other flavors in the dish. However, Italian lasagna lets each ingredient shine so you experience a new flavor in every bite – the tenderness of the noodles, the creaminess of the mozzarella, the saltiness of the parmesan, and the sweetness of the tomatoes. I still salivate thinking about that lasagna.
I was very proud of Sean during this leg of our vacation because each night at dinner he shared a half bottle of red wine with me (I wasn’t sure he could have handled a full bottle, so we played it safe). Sean is not a fan of wine, least of all red wine, but he stretched his comfort zone and indulged – and found out during the process that he actually likes Italian red wine quite a bit! We even bought a few bottles during our week in Florence to take back to our hotel room for an evening treat. Our last night in Rome, we really classed it up with a $12 bottle of Moscato D’Asti (not a red wine, but one we both love) served in plastic glasses. I struggled with drinking from plastic cups at first as the wine lover in me rebels against anything other than proper wine glasses, but after a few servings, I found it very hard to care.
Our most noteworthy wine and culinary experience occurred in the Cinque Terre. On our first stop in the furthest Cinque Terre town, Monterosso, we visited a private winery set atop a hill overlooking the vineyards, olive groves, and lemon trees. There we were presented with three different wines and an entire platter of traditional Cinque Terre food – most notably, the pesto (which originates from this area), though the olives fresh out of the groves were exceptional as well. It was there that we also had our first introduction to Sciacchetrà (pronounced shah-key-trah). Although too sweet for me, Sean liked it and we ended up buying a bottle to enjoy later in the week.
In Italy, the sweet wines like Sciacchetrà and Vin Santo are served in shot glasses with small pieces of biscotti for dunking. This food pairing will most likely be one that Sean and I continue when we get home – it is a great combination and definitely beats dunking biscotti in plain ol’ coffee!
Speaking of coffee, I have never been a huge fan of any form of coffee that hasn’t been sweetened to the extreme. That was not the case in Italy. I started each morning with a cup (or two) of cappuccino, unsweetened and yet equally delicious – if not more so. Sean and I may be investing in an espresso machine very soon. Possible birthday gift idea? Who knows, Sean may have the opportunity to add barista to his resume by year’s end.
The other phenomenal dining experience we had in the Cinque Terre was at Trattoria dal Billy, which came recommended by numerous online bloggers. Sean and I went hog wild and ordered the antipasti di mare, which consisted of twelve small seafood dishes (antipasti di mare is the typical antipasti dish in the Cinque Terre – you can’t find the traditional meat and cheese platter like you can in the rest of Italy). Each dish was uniquely different and equally tasty – we ate every last bite. We both had our first fresh anchovy tasting, which is nothing like the preserved anchovies available back home. For our main course we split the plate of the day, a serving of fresh lobster pasta. This required that we get our hands a bit dirty because the lobster was at the bottom of our pasta bowl, cut in half and still in the shell. It was worth the hard work though and neither Sean nor I were complaining. We ended the meal with some sweet wine and biscotti, and two very full tummies!
Other foods we tried that don’t require much in the way of explanation were the tiramisu, cannoli, brioche, pizza and paninis. Although good, I’ve had these items back in the states that were just as tasty, if not more so.
A few new items that Sean and I tried were fried zucchini flowers (I have never seen these back home, but they should definitely make an appearance because they are yummy) and lampredotto sandwiches. The latter I had Sean try before telling him what it was – a cow’s fourth stomach. The restaurant we had it at, Nerboni, is famous in Florence for those types of sandwiches and for good reason – it was delicious. Even after Sean discovered what it was, he wanted more.
A quick note about one of the restaurants Sean and I ate at – Il Caminetto. My mom ate there a few years ago when she visited Florence and had taken a picture of it, but didn’t know the name. She mentioned how good the food was, but nowhere in her journals or note-taking did she jot down the name of the restaurant; it didn’t even appear in the picture she took. I really wanted to eat there because it was so cute and exactly how I pictured a small Italian restaurant to look, but without a name I didn’t know how we’d find it. I guess with technology these days I shouldn’t have worried because I was able to drop her picture into Google image search and found a matching picture online. The picture didn’t show the restaurant name, but it did tell what street it was on. With the streets identified, I used Google street view to virtually walk down the street until I found the restaurant – how cool is that? Sean and I ate there twice and had a great meal both times. You gotta love technology!
The photo my mom took of the restaurant.
The same restaurant six years later!
Of course, my all-time favorite indulgence in Italy was the gelato, which should not come as a shock to anyone who knows me. Nothing in the states even comes close to the creaminess of authentic gelato. While Sean played it safe and ordered standard flavors like caramel and vanilla, I had fun and experimented with flavors such as cottage cheese and pear, blue cheese, walnut and pear, saffron cream, and bilberry ricotta (does anyone know what a bilberry is???). Both Sean and I visited a few gelaterias in search of the perfect cup of gelato, but once we found that perfect cup, we were loyal customers. A coworker had recommended his favorite place, La Carraia, and he did not steer us wrong. I wish I could scoop that gelateria up and stick it right next door (or maybe just in Auburn, that would work too). I have a feeling I will be dreaming about that gelateria for quite some time and it will be my first stop (even before the hotel) when we return to Florence in the future.
Switzerland
Of all the food we’ve eaten in our different stops, I’ve been least impressed with Switzerland thus far. I’m sure I’ll go to culinary hell for saying this, but the Melting Pot produces a far better pot of cheese fondue than the one we tried while in Lucerne. I also tried apple kuchen, and though my personal recipe might be less authentic, I thought mine was a bit superior (though given I am a bit biased). Sean and I didn’t order repeats while in Lucerne, so I should be fair I suppose and take into consideration that the restaurant may not have been top notch and not use that as a reflection of the country’s cuisine. The one dish I was most intrigued by was the alpine macaroni. Alpine macaroni consists of macaroni noodles in a cheesy onion sauce, served with a dish of applesauce (much thicker and sweeter than in the US) that you mix into it. An interesting combination for sure, and yet one that surprisingly works. Both Sean and I gobbled it up and wished that we had ordered a larger serving.
France – Alsace Region
I am going to write about France based on the specific cities we visit because the Alsace region wasn’t the best representation of French cuisine. The few French foods we tried were nothing to write home about, but the German food was a completely different story. Being so close to Germany (and at times belonging to Germany) Alsace food is very heavily influenced by German ingredients. On our first night in Eguisheim, I had a delicious plate of sauerkraut, sausage and bacon – eating it made me think of my dad as it reminds me of the type of food he always orders when we visit Leavenworth. The other stand out meal I had, and the region’s specialty, was the tarte flambee (French version) or flammkuchen (German version). It is similar to a pizza, but is on a much thinner crust and traditionally consists only of cheese, caramelized onions, and bacon. It is a heart attack waiting to happen, but a darn good meal and a great representation of Alsace cuisine.
Sean bet me three foot rubs that I couldn't finish the whole thing - my feet have been getting quite pampered the past few nights!
Europe in General
The one food item we’ve seen all over Europe and probably Sean’s favorite so far is the wild boar (fresh and cured). It has a much different flavor than any other meat we’ve tried and it is delicious. We are both going to hunt for it when we get back home – Sean won’t rest until he finds it!
I think that’s enough (for now) about the food. This has officially become my longest blog post, but I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised since both Sean and I love food, as well as the culture and experiences it tends to inspire. More to come as we explore the culinary world within Belgium and Paris!
Italy
Italy has by far provided the most top notch cuisine on our trip, and therefore will also require the most explanation. I would like to imprint all of the foods and experiences into my memory, though I suspect it will force multiple return trips when a refresher is needed. After only a week in both Florence and Rome, I feel I could write an entire book about the foods of Italy. Everything was incredibly fresh and full of flavor. Nothing beats the tender chewiness of fresh homemade pasta and the sweetness of garden ripe tomatoes (Fun fact about tomatoes: although a huge part of Italian cuisine, Italy didn’t use tomatoes in their cooking until the 1500s when they were brought over from the Americas. You’re quite welcome Italy). On our first night in Rome, Sean and I ordered a plate of lasagna to share as our first course, and oh my goodness was it good. I have never had lasagna quite that delicious, and I make a mean lasagna so that’s saying a lot. In a lot of lasagna dishes, one ingredient (normally cheese) tends to overwhelm the other flavors in the dish. However, Italian lasagna lets each ingredient shine so you experience a new flavor in every bite – the tenderness of the noodles, the creaminess of the mozzarella, the saltiness of the parmesan, and the sweetness of the tomatoes. I still salivate thinking about that lasagna.
I was very proud of Sean during this leg of our vacation because each night at dinner he shared a half bottle of red wine with me (I wasn’t sure he could have handled a full bottle, so we played it safe). Sean is not a fan of wine, least of all red wine, but he stretched his comfort zone and indulged – and found out during the process that he actually likes Italian red wine quite a bit! We even bought a few bottles during our week in Florence to take back to our hotel room for an evening treat. Our last night in Rome, we really classed it up with a $12 bottle of Moscato D’Asti (not a red wine, but one we both love) served in plastic glasses. I struggled with drinking from plastic cups at first as the wine lover in me rebels against anything other than proper wine glasses, but after a few servings, I found it very hard to care.
Our most noteworthy wine and culinary experience occurred in the Cinque Terre. On our first stop in the furthest Cinque Terre town, Monterosso, we visited a private winery set atop a hill overlooking the vineyards, olive groves, and lemon trees. There we were presented with three different wines and an entire platter of traditional Cinque Terre food – most notably, the pesto (which originates from this area), though the olives fresh out of the groves were exceptional as well. It was there that we also had our first introduction to Sciacchetrà (pronounced shah-key-trah). Although too sweet for me, Sean liked it and we ended up buying a bottle to enjoy later in the week.
In Italy, the sweet wines like Sciacchetrà and Vin Santo are served in shot glasses with small pieces of biscotti for dunking. This food pairing will most likely be one that Sean and I continue when we get home – it is a great combination and definitely beats dunking biscotti in plain ol’ coffee!
Speaking of coffee, I have never been a huge fan of any form of coffee that hasn’t been sweetened to the extreme. That was not the case in Italy. I started each morning with a cup (or two) of cappuccino, unsweetened and yet equally delicious – if not more so. Sean and I may be investing in an espresso machine very soon. Possible birthday gift idea? Who knows, Sean may have the opportunity to add barista to his resume by year’s end.
The other phenomenal dining experience we had in the Cinque Terre was at Trattoria dal Billy, which came recommended by numerous online bloggers. Sean and I went hog wild and ordered the antipasti di mare, which consisted of twelve small seafood dishes (antipasti di mare is the typical antipasti dish in the Cinque Terre – you can’t find the traditional meat and cheese platter like you can in the rest of Italy). Each dish was uniquely different and equally tasty – we ate every last bite. We both had our first fresh anchovy tasting, which is nothing like the preserved anchovies available back home. For our main course we split the plate of the day, a serving of fresh lobster pasta. This required that we get our hands a bit dirty because the lobster was at the bottom of our pasta bowl, cut in half and still in the shell. It was worth the hard work though and neither Sean nor I were complaining. We ended the meal with some sweet wine and biscotti, and two very full tummies!
Other foods we tried that don’t require much in the way of explanation were the tiramisu, cannoli, brioche, pizza and paninis. Although good, I’ve had these items back in the states that were just as tasty, if not more so.
A few new items that Sean and I tried were fried zucchini flowers (I have never seen these back home, but they should definitely make an appearance because they are yummy) and lampredotto sandwiches. The latter I had Sean try before telling him what it was – a cow’s fourth stomach. The restaurant we had it at, Nerboni, is famous in Florence for those types of sandwiches and for good reason – it was delicious. Even after Sean discovered what it was, he wanted more.
A quick note about one of the restaurants Sean and I ate at – Il Caminetto. My mom ate there a few years ago when she visited Florence and had taken a picture of it, but didn’t know the name. She mentioned how good the food was, but nowhere in her journals or note-taking did she jot down the name of the restaurant; it didn’t even appear in the picture she took. I really wanted to eat there because it was so cute and exactly how I pictured a small Italian restaurant to look, but without a name I didn’t know how we’d find it. I guess with technology these days I shouldn’t have worried because I was able to drop her picture into Google image search and found a matching picture online. The picture didn’t show the restaurant name, but it did tell what street it was on. With the streets identified, I used Google street view to virtually walk down the street until I found the restaurant – how cool is that? Sean and I ate there twice and had a great meal both times. You gotta love technology!
Of course, my all-time favorite indulgence in Italy was the gelato, which should not come as a shock to anyone who knows me. Nothing in the states even comes close to the creaminess of authentic gelato. While Sean played it safe and ordered standard flavors like caramel and vanilla, I had fun and experimented with flavors such as cottage cheese and pear, blue cheese, walnut and pear, saffron cream, and bilberry ricotta (does anyone know what a bilberry is???). Both Sean and I visited a few gelaterias in search of the perfect cup of gelato, but once we found that perfect cup, we were loyal customers. A coworker had recommended his favorite place, La Carraia, and he did not steer us wrong. I wish I could scoop that gelateria up and stick it right next door (or maybe just in Auburn, that would work too). I have a feeling I will be dreaming about that gelateria for quite some time and it will be my first stop (even before the hotel) when we return to Florence in the future.
Switzerland
Of all the food we’ve eaten in our different stops, I’ve been least impressed with Switzerland thus far. I’m sure I’ll go to culinary hell for saying this, but the Melting Pot produces a far better pot of cheese fondue than the one we tried while in Lucerne. I also tried apple kuchen, and though my personal recipe might be less authentic, I thought mine was a bit superior (though given I am a bit biased). Sean and I didn’t order repeats while in Lucerne, so I should be fair I suppose and take into consideration that the restaurant may not have been top notch and not use that as a reflection of the country’s cuisine. The one dish I was most intrigued by was the alpine macaroni. Alpine macaroni consists of macaroni noodles in a cheesy onion sauce, served with a dish of applesauce (much thicker and sweeter than in the US) that you mix into it. An interesting combination for sure, and yet one that surprisingly works. Both Sean and I gobbled it up and wished that we had ordered a larger serving.
France – Alsace Region
I am going to write about France based on the specific cities we visit because the Alsace region wasn’t the best representation of French cuisine. The few French foods we tried were nothing to write home about, but the German food was a completely different story. Being so close to Germany (and at times belonging to Germany) Alsace food is very heavily influenced by German ingredients. On our first night in Eguisheim, I had a delicious plate of sauerkraut, sausage and bacon – eating it made me think of my dad as it reminds me of the type of food he always orders when we visit Leavenworth. The other stand out meal I had, and the region’s specialty, was the tarte flambee (French version) or flammkuchen (German version). It is similar to a pizza, but is on a much thinner crust and traditionally consists only of cheese, caramelized onions, and bacon. It is a heart attack waiting to happen, but a darn good meal and a great representation of Alsace cuisine.
Europe in General
The one food item we’ve seen all over Europe and probably Sean’s favorite so far is the wild boar (fresh and cured). It has a much different flavor than any other meat we’ve tried and it is delicious. We are both going to hunt for it when we get back home – Sean won’t rest until he finds it!
I think that’s enough (for now) about the food. This has officially become my longest blog post, but I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised since both Sean and I love food, as well as the culture and experiences it tends to inspire. More to come as we explore the culinary world within Belgium and Paris!
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Monday, May 27, 2013
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Eguisheim
Sean and I bid farewell to Lucerne today, which felt a little like we were leaving home all over again. We arrived in Colmar around 1:00 pm this afternoon and headed to Europcar to pick up our transport for the next few days. We had received an email from them yesterday saying that they would not be open to deliver the car, and after spending some time with corporate (some very expensive time I might add - Verizon is not cheap overseas), we were promised that our car would be ready for pick-up. However, when we arrived, our car was no where to be found - meaning we had to grab a taxi to our hotel in Eguisheim.
All that said, Sean and I decided to take advantage of the opportunity, despite the fact that this impacted our agenda for the next few days. We spent the afternoon exploring Eguisheim and the surrounding vineyards, then had dinner at our hotel's restaurant (which was a delicious blend of both German and French cuisine). During dinner we had an encounter with an "ugly Canadian" who created quite a scene with her drunkenly behavior (we were just praying that everyone knew she was Canadian and not American).
Eguisheim is too cute for words - in fact, it is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France and is a bit like Leavenworth on steroids. So, rather than try to find the words, I took a ton of photos (as most of you know is fairly typical of me) and will let them do the talking instead.
As if all that wasn't enough, there are doves everywhere, sitting on top of the rooftops and cooing, heaping on the charm. Both Sean and I look forward to spending the next three nights here, as well as exploring all the other small villages along the route de vins.
All that said, Sean and I decided to take advantage of the opportunity, despite the fact that this impacted our agenda for the next few days. We spent the afternoon exploring Eguisheim and the surrounding vineyards, then had dinner at our hotel's restaurant (which was a delicious blend of both German and French cuisine). During dinner we had an encounter with an "ugly Canadian" who created quite a scene with her drunkenly behavior (we were just praying that everyone knew she was Canadian and not American).
Eguisheim is too cute for words - in fact, it is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France and is a bit like Leavenworth on steroids. So, rather than try to find the words, I took a ton of photos (as most of you know is fairly typical of me) and will let them do the talking instead.
As if all that wasn't enough, there are doves everywhere, sitting on top of the rooftops and cooing, heaping on the charm. Both Sean and I look forward to spending the next three nights here, as well as exploring all the other small villages along the route de vins.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Friday, May 24, 2013
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Welcome to Switzerland
Apparently I’m a floozy – I fall hopelessly in love with every city we visit. I require no sweet talk, no courting - just plan ol' love at first sight. Lucerne is stunning – and stinkin’ adorable to boot. While gallivanting all over Switzerland today, Sean and I were both able to admire the countryside, which reminded us of an enhanced version of home – lots of greenery, lakes and rivers, mountain ranges, gray skies, and drizzly weather. It is quite possibly some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve had the privilege of witnessing – even more so than the Tuscan countryside. After arriving, we departed the train station to cross the Reuss River and were greeted by the Chapel Bridge, a covered wooden footbridge spanning diagonally across the river. As we began crossing, I nearly did a double take as I caught a glimpse of all the swans floating around the bridge. They are everywhere! I feel very lucky because our hotel room looks out at the river, the bridge, and best of all, all the beautiful swans! I don’t know what it is about swans, but they just seem to cozy up a place and make it seem like one of the most special places on earth.
Needing to unwind, Sean and I headed down to the Mr. Pickwick Pub for dinner tonight. The pub is known as “the home away from home” and I couldn’t agree more – it is a very relaxing and inviting atmosphere, and I settled in right away. We both indulged in a few much deserved beers, which were some of the best beers I’ve ever had (Eichhoff) – I’m hoping we can find the same kind in the states. I had been warned about the high food prices in Switzerland, but even knowing that I was surprised by the cost. Our total bill for two cheeseburgers and four pints (I told you we indulged) came to a whopping 80 CH! Holy cow! Red Robin always seems pricey to me, but even that would only set us back at most $50 – funny all the things we take for granted back home. Tomorrow we set out for another adventure – here’s hoping we have more success this time around!
The view from our room.
Needing to unwind, Sean and I headed down to the Mr. Pickwick Pub for dinner tonight. The pub is known as “the home away from home” and I couldn’t agree more – it is a very relaxing and inviting atmosphere, and I settled in right away. We both indulged in a few much deserved beers, which were some of the best beers I’ve ever had (Eichhoff) – I’m hoping we can find the same kind in the states. I had been warned about the high food prices in Switzerland, but even knowing that I was surprised by the cost. Our total bill for two cheeseburgers and four pints (I told you we indulged) came to a whopping 80 CH! Holy cow! Red Robin always seems pricey to me, but even that would only set us back at most $50 – funny all the things we take for granted back home. Tomorrow we set out for another adventure – here’s hoping we have more success this time around!
Unexpected Adventures
Today has definitely been an adventure. With only one train ride under our belt, Sean and I were not ready for our Eurail navigation skills to be put to the test. After arriving at S. Maria Novella train station in Florence with excessive time to spare, we found out that our departing train was delayed by 40 minutes. With only a twenty minute connection time in Milan to our train to Lucerne, we knew immediately that we would not be at our destination on time. We tried asking for help from numerous people and kept getting the run around – it seemed no one wanted to take the time to help us. After much frustration, our train finally arrived and we boarded having no clue as to what to do when we arrived at the next stop. In Milan, we were able to track someone down who was willing to help and point us in the right direction. Our new direction required another connection – this time in Zurich. We arrived in Zurich, only to discover that we needed to board yet another train heading back the way we came, but at least it was set to end in Lucerne (so much for the train system being ridiculously easy!). We have definitely seen our fair share of the Switzerland countryside. Our original arrival time was set for 6:12 pm, but after all the mishaps, we finally made it at 8:00 pm. Such a relief!
I think my emotions have run the gamut today from angry, frustrated, panicked, relieved, and now, after finally arriving, I’m excited and exhausted. If you can name it, I've probably felt it at some point today. I suppose if I’m bound to get lost in Europe, there’s no one I’d rather get lost with than Sean. We are now relaxing in the hotel (Hotel Pickwick), which is a lot of fun. The rooms are very small and simple, and located above the Mr. Pickwick Pub. After our train ride today, I began to feel very lonely due to the frustration we encountered and all the language barriers. However, we are both feeling more comfortable now as the bar is an English/Irish pub, so everyone speaks English and the food is a nice taste of home. This spot is just the pick-me-up we both needed after the stress we faced today. Lucerne is looking to be the perfect spot to recharge after all the new experiences we've had this past week.
I think my emotions have run the gamut today from angry, frustrated, panicked, relieved, and now, after finally arriving, I’m excited and exhausted. If you can name it, I've probably felt it at some point today. I suppose if I’m bound to get lost in Europe, there’s no one I’d rather get lost with than Sean. We are now relaxing in the hotel (Hotel Pickwick), which is a lot of fun. The rooms are very small and simple, and located above the Mr. Pickwick Pub. After our train ride today, I began to feel very lonely due to the frustration we encountered and all the language barriers. However, we are both feeling more comfortable now as the bar is an English/Irish pub, so everyone speaks English and the food is a nice taste of home. This spot is just the pick-me-up we both needed after the stress we faced today. Lucerne is looking to be the perfect spot to recharge after all the new experiences we've had this past week.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
We Did It!
We climbed all 463 steps to the top of the Duomo today! I thought I was going to die - not from exhaustion (though there was that), but also from the mass claustrophobia I was feeling and the super steep spiral stairs that could kill anyone should they take a minor tumble. The views definitely made it worth every single step - and thank goodness for Sean, because this was his activity of choice for the day. I'm super proud of both of us though - everyone else was huffing and puffing too, so at least I know we aren't the only two out of shape in Florence!
Monday, May 20, 2013
Addictions
I have a new addiction. It's not ice cream...that's an old addiction. See the pictures below and you'll understand. We've only been in Florence two full days and I've already managed to buy eight nine pashminas. That's a little more than four a day - more than the scoops of gelato I've been indulging in (okay, so maybe I lied, but more about that later). Florence has pashminas everywhere, in every fabric, color, texture, and length imaginable. What's a girl to do? At only 5 euro each, it's impossible to be selective; however, I fear that my suitcase may soon start objecting.
It started with the colorful pashmina Sean bought for me at the Campo de Fiori market in Rome - that was my gateway drug. Then I bought one this afternoon at Piazzale Michelangelo and proceeded to buy four more over the next hour. On our return trip home from the tour, I saw a woman selling the most beautiful pashmina I've seen thus far in Italy. I had to have it. Unfortunately, the driver of our hop on/hop off bus didn't feel like disrupting 20 other tourists to indulge my addiction. However, as we passed through the streets on our way to the hotel, we stumbled upon an outdoor market selling leather goods, jewelry, and most importantly, pashminas! The hunt was on and Sean and I spent the next hour searching for my long lost beauty. We never did find it, but I did find three others to round off my collection. Oh well, the search continues...
5/22 Update - The search paid off! After the hop on/hop off bus tour today, Sean and I were walking back to our hotel and we passed a tourist trap pashmina stand right outside the train station. One of the pashminas caught my eye because it was similar in style to the one I have been looking for and when Sean pulled it out from the others, another one became visible and it was THE ONE. I am one happy lady (and now the proud owner of 10 pashminas)!
It started with the colorful pashmina Sean bought for me at the Campo de Fiori market in Rome - that was my gateway drug. Then I bought one this afternoon at Piazzale Michelangelo and proceeded to buy four more over the next hour. On our return trip home from the tour, I saw a woman selling the most beautiful pashmina I've seen thus far in Italy. I had to have it. Unfortunately, the driver of our hop on/hop off bus didn't feel like disrupting 20 other tourists to indulge my addiction. However, as we passed through the streets on our way to the hotel, we stumbled upon an outdoor market selling leather goods, jewelry, and most importantly, pashminas! The hunt was on and Sean and I spent the next hour searching for my long lost beauty. We never did find it, but I did find three others to round off my collection. Oh well, the search continues...
5/22 Update - The search paid off! After the hop on/hop off bus tour today, Sean and I were walking back to our hotel and we passed a tourist trap pashmina stand right outside the train station. One of the pashminas caught my eye because it was similar in style to the one I have been looking for and when Sean pulled it out from the others, another one became visible and it was THE ONE. I am one happy lady (and now the proud owner of 10 pashminas)!
Sunday, May 19, 2013
A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words...
...or a thousand more pictures as the case may be. I have a slight addiction to photography, but the request was made that I share, so feel free to browse as you wish. I have done my best to just find the highlights and not include them all. Pictures are organized by city and the link can be found here.
Ciao Roma!
Today was our last day in Rome, so Sean and I checked out early and left our bags at our hotel so we could do some last minute exploring of some of the sites we had missed. Our goal was to make it to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, Piazza del Popolo, and the Borghese Gardens. The basilica was just up the street from our hotel, so we headed that way with the intent of catching a cab to the other two sites when we were finished. The basilica was beautiful and I'm so glad we didn't miss it. Every nook and cranny is filled with exquisite detail - stained glass, statues, detailed flooring - not an inch of space has been left untouched.
After about an hour of exploring and photo taking, Sean and I headed outside to find a cab. Unfortunately, luck was not on our side. As we strolled back towards the taxi center, we noticed all the streets surrounding our hotel were being blocked off to vehicle traffic. We popped into our hotel to inquire and were told that there was going to be a protest and that driving anywhere would be nearly impossible. Slightly disappointed to miss the piazza and gardens, but also a bit excited to get caught up in the cultural drama, Sean and I headed up the street to a small restaurant in order to have a beer and watch the protest unfold. While waiting, we witnessed one of the scams we had been warned about - a gypsy woman walking around with a baby, asking for change, hoping to pick naive pockets (the arm holding her baby was fake, leaving her real arm free to pick the pockets of those not in the know).
The streets quickly filled with thousands of protesters - a sea of flags, banners, and balloons. Some marched in a parade of sorts, while others gathered on the piazza area outside of the train station, chanting and listening to music. It was a very peaceful protest and seemed more like a big party to which everyone was invited (Sean and I were excited to be on the guest list!). After a few hours of people watching, Sean and I had to head back to the hotel to grab our bags. The streets were still a disaster, but we didn't know how long the event would last and as this was our first train ride in Europe, we wanted to make sure we could figure out the train system (turns out it is ridiculously easy).
When we exited the hotel (only 10 minutes later), no evidence remained of the protest. The crowds were gone, the streets were opened, and people were carrying on as if nothing had happened. It was hard not to think that we had simply imagined it all. Our walk to the train station was short and fortunately very quick (which bought us lots of extra time that we soon found we needed), because both Sean and I forgot that we were supposed to be at a different train station to catch our departure. Fortunately, a man standing next to us as we waited (for a train that would never come) saw our tickets and gave us instructions on how to reach the correct station. Thank goodness he caught our mistake or we would have been waiting for quite some time!
Sean and I departed Rome with a bit of regret for the sights we missed, exhaustion from the chaos that is Rome, and with the hope that we will return in the future. Though, that said, neither of us fell in love with Rome and though we would still like to visit again someday to explore the history that exists within the city, we aren't overly eager to make a long trip of it. Ciao Roma!
After about an hour of exploring and photo taking, Sean and I headed outside to find a cab. Unfortunately, luck was not on our side. As we strolled back towards the taxi center, we noticed all the streets surrounding our hotel were being blocked off to vehicle traffic. We popped into our hotel to inquire and were told that there was going to be a protest and that driving anywhere would be nearly impossible. Slightly disappointed to miss the piazza and gardens, but also a bit excited to get caught up in the cultural drama, Sean and I headed up the street to a small restaurant in order to have a beer and watch the protest unfold. While waiting, we witnessed one of the scams we had been warned about - a gypsy woman walking around with a baby, asking for change, hoping to pick naive pockets (the arm holding her baby was fake, leaving her real arm free to pick the pockets of those not in the know).
The streets quickly filled with thousands of protesters - a sea of flags, banners, and balloons. Some marched in a parade of sorts, while others gathered on the piazza area outside of the train station, chanting and listening to music. It was a very peaceful protest and seemed more like a big party to which everyone was invited (Sean and I were excited to be on the guest list!). After a few hours of people watching, Sean and I had to head back to the hotel to grab our bags. The streets were still a disaster, but we didn't know how long the event would last and as this was our first train ride in Europe, we wanted to make sure we could figure out the train system (turns out it is ridiculously easy).
When we exited the hotel (only 10 minutes later), no evidence remained of the protest. The crowds were gone, the streets were opened, and people were carrying on as if nothing had happened. It was hard not to think that we had simply imagined it all. Our walk to the train station was short and fortunately very quick (which bought us lots of extra time that we soon found we needed), because both Sean and I forgot that we were supposed to be at a different train station to catch our departure. Fortunately, a man standing next to us as we waited (for a train that would never come) saw our tickets and gave us instructions on how to reach the correct station. Thank goodness he caught our mistake or we would have been waiting for quite some time!
Sean and I departed Rome with a bit of regret for the sights we missed, exhaustion from the chaos that is Rome, and with the hope that we will return in the future. Though, that said, neither of us fell in love with Rome and though we would still like to visit again someday to explore the history that exists within the city, we aren't overly eager to make a long trip of it. Ciao Roma!
All Roads Lead to Rome
I'm not going to lie...I found Rome to be a bit uninspiring. People seem to fall into one of two categories - they either love Rome, or they hate Rome. Sean and I fell into the latter category. I suppose hate is a strong word and not entirely true - I did appreciate the history that the city offered, but I didn't particularly enjoy my time there. During our entire vacation I knew I needed to blog about our experience, but I felt so uninspired that it fell by the wayside. Rather than spend a lot of time capturing our Roman adventure in words, I'll let our pictures do the talking.
When in Rome...
Be careful crossing the street! No joke – it is worse than Canada. Having visited Vancouver B.C. multiple times growing up, I am used to pedestrians not having the right of way, but that still did not prepare me for what we encountered in Rome. I have no idea how people drive in that city and make it out with their lives. I half expected to see a car accident or two while there, yet we never did (though we did witness numerous scratched and dented bumpers).
Arriving in Rome was a massive culture shock. I don’t think I would ever recommend that someone visit Rome as the very first stop in their European experience – it is overwhelming to say the least. On our trip from the airport to the city center, I was surprised at how similar it is to other large cities. That sounds naïve I’m sure, and I’m not entirely sure what I was expecting, but I wasn’t anticipating driving through a city that could easily be mistaken for any other large city from any other country (minus the ancient Roman ruins of course). After getting lost trying to find our hotel, Sean and I settled in and cleaned up a bit after the 18+ hours of travel. Then we hit the streets to get oriented with the city. From our hotel (Hotel Selene), it was an easy walk to Piazza della Republica. We knew we couldn’t get lost finding an attraction that was within eyesight.
However, from there our sightseeing went downhill – fast. In an attempt to find Trevi Fountain, we lost ourselves in the back streets of Rome. Fortunately we were in the mood for exploring, so we weren’t too bothered by the delay it caused to our schedule (with only one full day in the city, we knew we had to pack as much sightseeing as we could into every waking moment).
We decided to give up trying to read the tourist map we had been given (not at all helpful) and follow the hoards of people moving in the general direction of where we guessed Trevi Fountain to be located. Fortunately our hunch paid off, and as we broke free from some of the buildings, Neptune towered into view. Trevi Fountain was definitely worth the visit (and getting lost), especially for a Roman history and mythology buff like me. The fountain was beautiful and the excitement within the crowd was intoxicating. Trevi was surrounded by hundreds of people, all trying to get close enough to throw their coins into the fountain. Having just arrived in Rome we didn’t yet have any coins (only the 20 and 50 Euros that the ATM spit out), but I didn’t want to miss out on the obligatory coin toss. To get some change, we found a gelato stand to have our first true Italian gelato, but of course, it came to an even number that provided no coins in return. There was a fruit stand nearby selling fresh coconut slices, so I decided to indulge in that treat as well, which gave us a return on our investment by providing two one-Euro coins that Sean and I threw into the fountain, assuring our return trip to Rome.
Getting lost one time wasn’t enough for us two free spirits (what, that doesn’t sound like us?), so we wandered the streets trying to find the Spanish Steps – which from what we could tell, wasn’t even on the map we had been given. A quick rant about the tourist maps - for whatever reason, the maps are in Italian, which for a tourist, isn’t actually that helpful. While it did allow us to point and get gestured directions from non-English speakers, we didn’t always know what it was we were actually pointing to. End rant. Because we couldn’t locate the Spanish Steps anywhere on the map, we took a few guesses – all of which were wrong. After about an hour of aimless wandering (we did A LOT of that in our three days), we stumbled upon the Spanish Steps almost by accident (I say almost because Sean did finally figure out where they were located, but even knowing that we weren’t sure we were headed in the right direction – that’s how confusing Rome is). If I lived near the Spanish Steps, I’m pretty sure I would visit them every day. Of all the sites we visited, they were one of my favorites (along with Trastevere, but more about that later). There seemed to be an agreed upon peace on the steps – a short break from the chaos that is Rome. We savored the calm and lingered for a while, enjoying the view and the cooling warmth of the sunset.
It was getting close to dinner at this point, so we found a little outdoor restaurant and enjoyed a glass of wine and an authentic Italian meal out on the sidewalk. Sean and I decided to split a few courses and have continued to do so throughout most of our trip. After dinner, we headed back to the hotel to call it a night. We wanted to stay awake until at least 9:00 pm to fight the jet lag, but as we were quickly approaching our self-imposed time limit, we figured it was safe to head back and go to bed. We went to bed exhausted and excited for all the adventures to come.
Arriving in Rome was a massive culture shock. I don’t think I would ever recommend that someone visit Rome as the very first stop in their European experience – it is overwhelming to say the least. On our trip from the airport to the city center, I was surprised at how similar it is to other large cities. That sounds naïve I’m sure, and I’m not entirely sure what I was expecting, but I wasn’t anticipating driving through a city that could easily be mistaken for any other large city from any other country (minus the ancient Roman ruins of course). After getting lost trying to find our hotel, Sean and I settled in and cleaned up a bit after the 18+ hours of travel. Then we hit the streets to get oriented with the city. From our hotel (Hotel Selene), it was an easy walk to Piazza della Republica. We knew we couldn’t get lost finding an attraction that was within eyesight.
However, from there our sightseeing went downhill – fast. In an attempt to find Trevi Fountain, we lost ourselves in the back streets of Rome. Fortunately we were in the mood for exploring, so we weren’t too bothered by the delay it caused to our schedule (with only one full day in the city, we knew we had to pack as much sightseeing as we could into every waking moment).
We decided to give up trying to read the tourist map we had been given (not at all helpful) and follow the hoards of people moving in the general direction of where we guessed Trevi Fountain to be located. Fortunately our hunch paid off, and as we broke free from some of the buildings, Neptune towered into view. Trevi Fountain was definitely worth the visit (and getting lost), especially for a Roman history and mythology buff like me. The fountain was beautiful and the excitement within the crowd was intoxicating. Trevi was surrounded by hundreds of people, all trying to get close enough to throw their coins into the fountain. Having just arrived in Rome we didn’t yet have any coins (only the 20 and 50 Euros that the ATM spit out), but I didn’t want to miss out on the obligatory coin toss. To get some change, we found a gelato stand to have our first true Italian gelato, but of course, it came to an even number that provided no coins in return. There was a fruit stand nearby selling fresh coconut slices, so I decided to indulge in that treat as well, which gave us a return on our investment by providing two one-Euro coins that Sean and I threw into the fountain, assuring our return trip to Rome.
Getting lost one time wasn’t enough for us two free spirits (what, that doesn’t sound like us?), so we wandered the streets trying to find the Spanish Steps – which from what we could tell, wasn’t even on the map we had been given. A quick rant about the tourist maps - for whatever reason, the maps are in Italian, which for a tourist, isn’t actually that helpful. While it did allow us to point and get gestured directions from non-English speakers, we didn’t always know what it was we were actually pointing to. End rant. Because we couldn’t locate the Spanish Steps anywhere on the map, we took a few guesses – all of which were wrong. After about an hour of aimless wandering (we did A LOT of that in our three days), we stumbled upon the Spanish Steps almost by accident (I say almost because Sean did finally figure out where they were located, but even knowing that we weren’t sure we were headed in the right direction – that’s how confusing Rome is). If I lived near the Spanish Steps, I’m pretty sure I would visit them every day. Of all the sites we visited, they were one of my favorites (along with Trastevere, but more about that later). There seemed to be an agreed upon peace on the steps – a short break from the chaos that is Rome. We savored the calm and lingered for a while, enjoying the view and the cooling warmth of the sunset.
It was getting close to dinner at this point, so we found a little outdoor restaurant and enjoyed a glass of wine and an authentic Italian meal out on the sidewalk. Sean and I decided to split a few courses and have continued to do so throughout most of our trip. After dinner, we headed back to the hotel to call it a night. We wanted to stay awake until at least 9:00 pm to fight the jet lag, but as we were quickly approaching our self-imposed time limit, we figured it was safe to head back and go to bed. We went to bed exhausted and excited for all the adventures to come.
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